You’re used to your expectations being unmet. You keep them high, which means things often fall short. Lowering the bar is out of the question, but you’d be lying if you said you weren’t tired of getting Dan Brown when you were expecting James Joyce.
And then there are brands like Nasomatto, which exceed expectations you didn’t even know you have. Though it was a relatively short-lived experiment, Nasomatto left a mark on the fragrance world that can’t be ignored.
The brains (and nose) behind Nasomatto is Alessandro Gualtieri, an Italian perfumer who has created scents for Versace, Valentino, Helmut Lang, Fendi, Diesel, and more. Gualtieri was educated in the art of perfumery in Germany and built a successful career working with artists, niche brands and major designers – but after being rejected more and more for his radical concepts, he decided to strike out on his own.
Gualtieri established his Amsterdam-based brand in 2007 and called it Nasomatto (Italian for ‘crazy nose’). The first series of fragrances was released later that year: Hindu Grass, Duro, Narcotic Venus, Silver Musk, and Absinth. In the following years, several more scents joined the line-up: China White (2008), Black Afgano (2009), Nuda (2010), and Pardon (2011). The tenth and last scent, Blamage, was released in 2014 along with a film about its origins called The Nose – Searching for Blamage.
Of his unique approach to perfumery, Gualtieri says “I begin to make something but at a certain point, it starts making choices by itself. It is the process that interests and guides me. I like the feeling of losing control and I’m not the one making the choices. My involvement is to create something that is alive and will be able to say new things. I want my perfumes to have an intelligence of their own, not just be slaves to my meaning.”
Gualtieri’s anarchic creative process may have alienated him from more traditional brands, but it made Nasomatto a cult favourite and his new venture, Orto Parisi, instantly intriguing.
What They’re Known For
Nasomatto maintains a sense of mystery. The brand is curiously secretive – perfumers involved only provide their first names and no fragrance notes are given. Instead, all Nasomatto offers are strange, evocative descriptions that have become a trademark of the brand. The scents are variously described as aiming to “evoke degrees of hysteria,” “enhance all the manifestations of male strength,” “breathe the belief in universal peace and love,” and “evoke superhero magnetism.” There’s plenty of other charming weirdness where that came from, including a “quest for mercurial liquid love sensation” – whatever that means.
Why They’re Cool
Nasomatto’s bold, hit-you-on-the-head approach is no stranger to controversy. To many it has been off-putting, but we’ve always had a soft spot for rebels. Nasomatto is authentic, contemporary and created for connoisseurs. The project is meant for men with a strong interest in the distinguished art of perfumery and a hedonistic appreciation for the senses. Casual cologne wearers need not apply.
Where To Buy