Fashion month for men, last September and February, set the record straight for 2015. What big trends would play out in menswear in the proceeding twelve months? And when would we all have to start paying attention? Now, it seems. Because life is fast and digital technology makes things happen sooner, key runway trends from mere months ago are already hitting the streets.
As the super-gents get ahead of the fashion-game, we’ll get you caught up in good time. And because you don’t want to be left looking so last season, we’ve honed in on five style changes for 2015.
#1 Seeing Red
While navy and olive green consumed 2014, red or ‘marsala’ is the official colour for 2015. A deep, red hue, marsala is named after a famous Sicilian wine and embodies the colour of the thick brew. Its dirtiness gives a warmth back to outerwear for winter (as an overcoat in thick wool or soft-look, cotton trench) and gives summer its natural heat on tailored chino shorts and button-shirts, short-sleeved.
Marsala’s neutral tone makes it as versatile as navy when it comes to colour blocking, balancing out the purples, yellows and greens in the same outfit, much like the standard black and white. And marsala is a clever, more brilliant colour for suiting – from tuxedos to blazers to three-piece suits. It is a formal, regal red offering luxury to a piece when needed, but an earthiness to casual shirting, chinos and even shoes.
Whether it’s termed a neckerchief, cravat or man-scarf, the neck tie (as we’ve called it today) has never been so on-trend. Perhaps it’s the recent disregard for traditional ties (outside of work) that has us begging for some other throat constraint? Despite popular belief, these neck pieces are well suited to casual looks too (think knitwear and open button shirts), given they are effortlessly loose and appear tied without too much precision.
To begin, select the piece of cloth (silk or cotton blend is best) and note that the shorter ones are easier to tie (but too short and you’ve got a choker). With the knot, it’s your choice – but keep it smaller and loose-ish – taking notes from the French monsieur, the Italian yachting maestro and the Americana rancher.
#3 Denim Exploration
Following on from jeans, denim – as a fabric to be explored and played with – is a big trend for 2015. Once solely the basis for a casual outfit, denim is the star of your ensemble this year, working its way into jackets, coats, shirting and blazers and even full-blown suits. In varying shades of blue, as well as grey and black, the key to working denim is picking your hues and washes, and knowing when and where to wear them.
Raw and selvage are immediate smart casual options, while vintage wash and distressed play off-duty well. We love the rise in soft-wash denim blazers, as a cunning way to standout from typical linen and the stay in tune with the blue craze in tailoring these past twelve months.
And not since the Eighties has double denim been so now. Just don’t go too monotone with the colour, being sure to mix your raw with your vintage and blues with blacks.
#4 Shearling & Suede
While the black biker jacket will never leave us (nor forsake us), 2015 is the year of alternatives to leather. Suede fringed jackets assaulted the runways in February, so it’s high time we thought about saddling up and investing in the brownish coat (maybe leave the fringing for a cowboy party).
Western jokes aside, suede is making a comeback and not just in brown. Dark purple, navy and olive green are key suede hues. And we’re not just talking outerwear; Elvis’ hit song ‘Blue Suede Shoes’ feels oh-so-right this season, so let suede replace leather sometimes over dress shoes and sneakers.
Shearling – made from sheep skin that has been tanned with the wool left on – was another popular jacket alternative to leather and a plusher suede version. With shearling, the suede surface remains on one side (usually the outer part of the jacket) and the clipped fur surface remains inside, acting as a lining.
You’ll see it spilling over the collars of jackets as a natural insulator and, this season, a decorator too. Still not sold on suede? Fake shearling can be inserted as a lining for denim and leather jackets coats. No excuses, now.
#5 That Seventies Slim
Just when you thought the suit coat couldn’t get any slimmer, it has. Typical of the disco decade, blazers and suit coats go razor-sharp in 2015 and cut-clean off the shoulder, cementing a trend that has been surmounting in recent months. While double-breasted, gold button blazers held strong in previous seasons, Seventies-inspired single-breast separates with small double-button details are more on par with this year.
Trousers will sport less detail, appearing flat at the front. Without pleats, it’s a cleaner finish. The change reflects the increasing shift in effortless, fuss-free tailoring for men, but modern elements such as textural wools, silks and cottons replacing the horrible polyester fabrics that our forefathers suffered. And don’t be afraid of a little colour with dulled-down greens, greys, blues, reds and yellows dyeing tailored pieces.