LCM is being covered by D’Marge editor-in-chief Luc Wiesman, who’s currently in London.
The Old Sorting Office – a gritty, redesigned space in inner London – set the scene for the Topman Spring/Summer 2016 show on Friday.
The British retailer’s midday show also kicked off London Collections: Men (LCM) – the English capital’s official fashion week. Pre-show in the street, LCM ambassadors were out in full force – David Gandy rocking a mismatched three-piece suit in grey with a contrast prince of wales checked waistcoat – before heading inside and perching front row alongside Oliver Cheshire, Lewis Hamilton and Tinie Tempah.
The lights down and then Topman’s very own cassette mix tape boomed on – clearly a trip back in time was scheduled. Floppy-haired models descended down the oblong runway rocking high-waist, wide-leg pants reflective of the English Northern Soul dance scene. Tank tops and leathers were patched with embroidered badges, over pants pink, khaki and denim, rounded out by black-and-white, pyjama striped trousers that felt ‘Beetlejuice’.
Sporty accents came with racer-striped, nylon pants and satiny windbreakers in blue and grey, before washed-out silk suits brought back any sense of formality to the fun collection. The clubby eccentrics will have to be toned down before reaching Topman’s stores. In the meantime, how do we get our hands on that mix tape?
The soundtrack of Interstellar created a haunting ambience at Craig Green. The tae kwon do-inspired collection from the Briton kept true to his somewhat genderless clothes: silk robes in primary red, blue and yellow, mixing with striking orange, black and white.
Though different from other SS16 designs of the day, you always count on Green to craft away from the more predictable sports, tailored and streetwear looks.
Monochromatic was the theme at Cottweiler, offering a sporty collection with a mix of symmetrical and deconstructed elements. The white-look outfits were boxy yet straight cut, with jogger pants under bombers and boxer shorts sitting under a championship sash.
The white synthetic technical fabrics had a pearl-finish too, adding to the clergymen look of the models who stood like Asian monks enduring painful silence for their god.
The most wearable collection of the day came from Aquascutum. The London heritage brand offered clean-cut tailoring, such as a herringbone blazer and a charcoal business suit, next to slim-fit separates in varying shades of grey.
Traditional British outerwear like the trench coat, received a colour update, painted in a muted blue that felt just as versatile as camel or black. Aquascutum completed their range with tortoiseshell shades and leather goods too, via a sturdy caramel carryall and matching document holder in burned brown.
Click through the slideshow for highlights of Day 1 of LCM Spring/Summer 2016.