Milan Fashion Week is being covered by D’Marge editor-in-chief Luc Wiesman, who’s currently in Milan.
Summer is the season for lightening things up, is it not? Milan Fashion Week Day 2 saw some of Italy’s biggest menswear names (Prada, Ferragamo and Bottega Veneta) look to urban youths and sports for inspiration, mixing casual cuts and active shapes into their traditionally tailored collections.
Retaining quality through rich fabrics and superior construction, luxury was never going to be flushed away (these pieces will still carry their hefty price tags). So, with the help of iconic American designers (Calvin Klein, Thom Forde and Marc Jacobs) high-end menswear’s decided to have a bit of fun on the runway, before all the seriousness that pertains to making sales next year in store.
It was a runway filled with hiking boots, and socks and sandals at the Bottega Veneta show, as designer Thomas Maier cemented his fetish for high-fashion outdoorwear in Spring. Heading back to nature, Maier entrenched earthy sandstone, green moss and ocean blue into utility blazers and blousons, referencing both the oversized and sleek sports accents.
Tailoring was soft, and silky in vertical pyjama stripes or pastel in Seventies greys; the trousers retaining a more active feel with cuffed ankles under slouched jackets. Now, off to woods.
Designer Massimiliano Giornetti played around with bold prints and burnt colouring for a collection that felt Seventies in hue but sports urban in functionality. The Ferragamo man is looking younger next spring, rocking coloured suiting – from ochre to bronze – and geometric print shirts in block-coloured panels over black.
Tailoring carried baseball uniform stripes, topped with caps and leather plimsolls, emphasising the brand’s shift from elegance to more off a youth-y style. Outerwear remained more luxurious, however, with beige topcoats and Fifties biker jackets in a rich tan. The transition into a more urban groove is a smart business move for Ferragamo, all the more permissible seeing the brand’s suiting hasn’t been compromised.
Dubbed ‘Graphic Heatwave’, the spring collection from American icon Calvin Klein was not as Seventies-Miami as it sounds. Instead, looks – in utility grey, beige, black and stark white – felt more urban-New York, and came either as completely tonal outfits or colour-blocked, with the occasional palm print or swirly landscape print in red and black on shirts breaking up the minimal.
There was an evident sports influence with neoprene joggers and nylon trousers with cropped hems under a structured blazer or overcoat, the latter featured strong shoulder lines for a masculine finish. Chinos and bombers came commanding with enough removable utility pockets to sink a warship, while denim pieces looked tastefully worn in too, adding to the stylish casualness that is CK.
Looking beyond ultra short shorts, Miuccia Prada offered an excellently tailored collection for Prada with pops of childish prints for a bit of fun. Piped school-boy blazers in metal grey sat sharp and open over contrast-stitched pants (and those shorts) offering more relaxed fit for summer.
Button shirts carried vertical, block-coloured stripes layered over zip-closed rollneck sweaters in black, before cartoonish rocket ships, rabbits and race cars drove over blue, orange and red knits and shirts as repetitive motifs. Suiting returned in the latter stages, with structured jackets in black paired with midnight blue trousers; the dazzle of starry, nylon shirting giving Prada a touch of brilliance in aqua and blood-moon red.
Daks creative director Filippo Scuffi delivered a spring collection inspired by the Fifties gymnast. Tailored silhouettes blended with a clean colour palette of beige, cream, white and light grey, with top coats cut masculine and square on the shoulder with a tie at the waist for extra shape. Knits with geometric prints featured over high-waisted pleated trousers in lightweight cotton, as well as sporty-look polos and vests layered over shirts.
Summer cardigans created a clubhouse, preppy vibe, with rollneck, ribbed sweaters under jackets revving up the sports chic when paired with neoprene-look trousers – cuffed at the hem with enclosed leather sandals. Daks’ leathergoods were a feature in themselves, offering light tan carryalls, medicine bags and totes.
Moncler Gamme Bleu
Nautical stripes reigned supreme at the Moncler Gamme Bleu show. Designed by Thom Browne, the collection was rowing-inspired with collegiate boaters, and even canoes and paddles, hitting the runway.
Striped seersucker blazers were lapped over zip-up polos and white shirting with striped ties – in combinations of grey and white, red and blue and peach, yellow and green – depending on what team you were on. The width of the vertical stripes varied over tailoring and outerwear too, offset by additional block colour jackets, kit bags, bucket hats and leather boat shoes.
Click through the slideshow for the best looks from Day 2 of Milan Fashion Week.