Milan Fashion Week is being covered by D’Marge editor-in-chief Luc Wiesman, who’s currently in Milan.
Designers showing Day 3 of Milan Fashion Week sent out a strong message via their Spring/Summer 2016 collections. What does it look like to dress as a man in 2015? Century-old fashion houses Etro and Gucci directed the contemporary gent toward androgynous fabrics and (at times) silhouettes, the new man wearing lace, butterfly embellishments and silk-bowed blouses with florals.
Fendi found a gender middle ground with glossy, exotic skins and metallics mixed in with slouchy tees and cool-dude coats, while Brioni crafted sartorial sharpness with silver teal suits that carried waist emphasising belts. But it was Italian men’s icon Canali who served up the most wearable collection of the day, with finely cut jackets, suits and outerwear, all luxuriously fabricated without sacrificing the foundations of traditional menswear.
It was a rather androgynous spring collection from newly appointed creative director Alessandro Michele for Gucci. The clothes looked vintage store Seventies, with embroidered birds, butterflies and flowers, mixed in with suede trimmed trenches that narrowed the shoulders and came cinched at the waist.
The Italian fashion house described its emphatic shifted from the previous sleek, sporty style of last spring to this year’s more floaty look, as a “new poetic horizon.” A runway show is never without eccentricities. And we’re predicting by the time this collection hits store, there may not be bug and floral embellishments on all tailoring and outerwear, allowing luxury men to pick and choose up just how experimental they want to be.
Designer Andrea Pompilio for Canali showed an array of minimal, colour blocked looks, which left all the luxury to the details. Ultra wearable, two-button suits in cotton and silk walked with crocodile loafers and suede briefcases, the latter streaked by a contrast coloured stripe that matched the neutral suit without strain.
Suede Harrington coats in fire-engine red, brown and green felt even more relaxed with neck-hung key holders, which offered a free-spirited, youthful edge. But the pièce de résistance was the silk organza trench in tan with updated oversized pockets – perfect for summer travels over Canali’s linen pleated plants in mustard. Bon voyage.
Precious metals and exotic skins were weapons used to craft a collection of sophisticated basics for Fendi SS16. Silvia Venturini Fendi proved even a tee can look good, whipped out in flashy synthetics or sponge-y fabrics and slightly oversized, hung over classic Bermuda shorts, neoprene joggers and wide-legged track pants.
Eschewing the temptation for springtime pastels, Fendi looked to blacks, browns, blues and the occasional red for casual wear too, the sombre hues tied in naturally with glossed-up leather car coats and ombre-dipped jackets for a championing of street chic; matched only by the sleek (and at times cartoonish) leather goods that the models clutched down the runway.
Snubbing sports and minimalism, there wasn’t an inch of active fluidness on the Etro runway this season. Instead, designer Kean Etro went for a marriage of masculine tailoring and typically feminine fabrication. While not as outlandish as the lace shirts at Burberry, Etro – the creator of paisley print – worked jacquard patterns and shimmery yarns into slim silhouettes using a range of dark yellows, powder pinks and several shades of bronze-y brown.
Key pieces from Etro were the narrow trousers and knee-length jackets in blue, next to stunning suits worked over in the brand’s signature paisley or micro dots and tribal art. Even shirts felt textural, with flashy fish scale prints that went swimmingly over sheen, cropped pants and espadrilles.
Inspired by Venetian architect Carlo Scarpa, Brioni’s Brendan Mullane explored the perimeters of the sartorial, mixing suiting with utilitarian functionalities. Teal-hued blazers and ice-blue suits came with brush-stroke panels in metal, for a refined patchwork look.
Silhouettes were sharp with suit jackets, made from from wool or leather, belted neatly at the waist like a trench, undercut by snug trousers. Factory worker looks came with suede pocketing on luxury suit jackets, before tech-y fabrics in nylon patches made for oversized parachute parkas with hoods, which were layered over smarter business pieces. Maybe men will start skydiving to work next?
Click through the slideshow for show highlights from Day 3 of Milan Fashion Week?