Day 3 at Paris Fashion Week was a vrai question of who-tailored-it better? Sartorial dismantler, Maison Margiela went surprisingly chic with sharp, lean suiting – adding rivets and metallic fabrics into the mix, reminding all that the maison still remains aloof from being ‘too serious’.
Ann Demeulemeester added pop colours to the brand’s typical sombre tones, while Berluti looked to the men of Florence for a Pitti Uomo-inspired collection of sweet hues and textural linen blazers; neckerchiefs, pockets and vibrant brogues on cue.
Finally, Givenchy’s ‘made in America’ motifs – denim, stars and stripes, came sports in boxy forms and shapes, mixed with religious iconography and grunge-y tartan prints. The linchpin? Rakish suits.
Saints and bad guys walked the runway for Givenchy Spring 2016. Prison-look pinstripes featured on masculine tailored pieces, next to rugged workwear inspired by industrial America. Designer Ricardo Tisci went hard with the utilitarian, offering pragmatic factory overalls in black with contrast stitching and workshop coats in denim hues.
Reneging on the slouchiness seen in Milan, Tisci went boxy with tops and Bermudas, while religious-print tees were atop punk-ish tartan. Working fromthe US flag, a constellation of stars printed on trousers, overcoats and apron trouser fronts, met with sharp stripes on square-shouldered topcoats and those rakish double-breasted suits.
Dubbed ‘Two Suns’, designer Sebastian Meunier worked pops of flashy orange, teal green and vermillion red into a relatively monochrome collection for Ann Demeulemeester. In the Belgian label’s traditional gothic romanticism, top coats in dark hues were slim and slightly bleached out, while blazers were lean – the sleeves bunched up to the elbows – layered over puzzle-piece, longline silk shirts or a slim fit tee.
Trousers started off tapered and cuffed for a touch of sports, before the activeness ramped up with cubic-mesh pants sitting over coloured leggings. The brand’s punky edginess reigned with denim cut-off jackets and super lean silhouettes, matched by leather pants.
Embroidered shirting added a softness to the collection too. But the key pieces were the casual jackets – sometimes sheer, sometimes sleeveless, the best being the navy top coats, silk racer jackets and a car coat that featured in the white section of the show.
Sleek and chic – that’s the new Maison Margiela. Deconstructed not so much any more, the French maison sent down soft, black tailoring and rock-ish tops and coats inside a dilapidated train station. Floaty trenches in bone lapped the rustic brown of a languid three-piece suit; adding a lightness to the touch of rock chic that emitted from satin lapel dinner jackets – stretched to make fluid top coats.
More superstar aesthetics emerged with slim-fit leather pants matched with studded boots; leather jackets wrapped rebelliously around the waist under a washed-out tank. Rubber coats added a synthetic futurism to the collection, before the looks switched to a sense of movement again – dusty hued trenches billowed over foiled-up suits and a white mac coat.
Creative director Alessandro Sartori added a bit of cheek to the traditional Berluti house. Despite the hint of technical brilliance sewn into the structured blazers with tight, notch lapels and single-breast fronting, the candy coloured tailoring almost undercut the sartorial talent.
Berluti embraced the notion of sprezzatura – the art of throwing things together – while still ooking chic. The sugary suit jackets – pink, purple and neon blue – were colour blocked over just-as-fancy saccharine pants, intermixed with rustic looking linen-silk jackets, which sat over geo-print button downs in vibrant yellow, purple and blue.
Outerwear was minimal – white mac coat and one in duck-egg blue – supported by white, slim tailoring for the Euro summer. Casual wear continued the colour assault, with a canary yellow pea coat and neon apple, shawl collar cable knit. A navy parka brought the vibrancy back into line, as did the light blue bomber and pastel grey car coat. Sweet or savoury – it’s a buffet for the picking, really.
Comme Des Garçons
Two British subcultures went to war on the Comme Des Garçons runway yesterday: the rich aristocrats and punks. Rei Kawakubo’s ‘Broken Tailoring’ collection sought to seek out the ‘value’ in suits by playing around with their form, before mixing punk-ish motifs into their sartorial enemies. Sharp double-breasted coats in a hunting tapestry fabric, were perverted by shunts of tartan shirting and polkadot brogues.
Pants were slashed from the knee down and black dinner jackets carried annihilated hems. Blazers boasted metallic coin embellishments over cropped trousers, which looked like cotton basketball shorts. Micro-check suit jackets in cream were elongated over matching shorts; preceding lilac top coats and double breasted shirting in pastel blue-and-white pinstripes.
The tailoring continued to be played with, always sharp in the shoulder and neat, but changed with bold, modernised plaids, stripes and metallic studs. However, there remained a regal-ness when layered over tunics made from crisp, white shirting; the poof-y artist hats and Baroque wigs making it feel all the more la-di-da.
Click through the slideshow for the show highlights, Day 3 of Paris Fashion Week.