Day Four of Paris fashion week saw designers play dress ups. Kenzo took to the skies with an aviation adventurer collection inspired by skydiving, as did Balmain whose explorer collection referenced earthy functional wear with urban slouchiness.
Acne Studios went on an acid trip with graphic prints and minimally sleek safari suits, before Dior schooled the Spring man with a lesson on mixing casual pieces and urban prints with incredibly tailored suits.
Olivier Rousteing’s debut men’s wear collection for Balmain was a melange of desert explorer and urban-sports dudes. Under a colour umbrella of sandy brown, chocolate and dark tan Balmain’s premier looks (featuring Sean O’Pry) varied from latticed biker jackets to double-breasted jackets with military gold buttons, followed by a street-y suede tank with swooping cow neck.
From here, the functionality of factory pockets stitched into jackets met with plunging crotches in tapered-ankled pants, the freedom offset by belted waists that cinched the male form. Balmain’s embroidered gold lion’s heads or phoenix birds swept onto casual outerwear; the trunk of the racer jackets made from tiger-dyed pony’s skin.
Tailoring included a trim black blazer with satin lapels, a navy double-breasted jacket with stud-age down the arms, and a cropped ceremonial blazer with gold cylinders down the front, stacked like bullet-casings. The Union Jack also got a feature on sweaters – the only pop of colour in the collection.
While tailoring – sleek black suits and more fashion-y ones in blue – were planted on and along the Dior Homme garden path, designer Kris Van Assche focused on the off-duty gent – the one who likes to take his luxury sharpness from the workplace suit and into the weekend.
Elegant lines and masculine combinations of blues, orange, and dark green, chased dashes of yellow and red. The tuxedos and tailcoats didn’t look stuffy next to camouflage trousers and shirting, paired daringly in and on suits. Black diamond prints embedded on vests and tees, before satiny, roomy bombers replaced suit jackets, redeeming the sports accent from the traditionalisms associated with argyle.
Even though Dior pre-warned an emphasising on “daywear” for Spring, the yellow mac in ostrich and tangerine crocodile bomber – confirmed street wear can be just as elegant.
Acne Studios presented its signature Swedish minimalism but with an injection of muted colours and Seventies prints. Inspired by rock band, New York Dolls, Acne creative director Jonny Johansson turned single-breast suits in pretty acid-spills with yellow swirls alongside factory suits with black-and-white graphic prints – a collaboration project with artist Robin Kegel.
Knitwear was light, slim fit and super long colour-blocked over billowy trousers. Macs were the seasonal choice for Acne – the versatility of the coat as street and formal attire, good reason enough to see it out in full force. Perfect simplicity didn’t eschew the blazers either; cut in Fifties safari style in powder blue and black.
Arid lands set the scene at Humberto Leon and Carol Lim’s travel-inspired collection for Kenzo. Skydiving references (think ‘pull’ printed on white tees and scrunched aqua sweaters) met with silk parachute parkas and canvas-made boiler suits in stark white.
Tailoring featured regular fit utilitarian pocket suits in the lightest of lilacs and army mustard, with a pastel yellow number with three-quarter cotton trousers. Pops of pink brightened up skin-thin sweaters, while 3D knitwear in grey or beige gave the jumper a crater look. Sandals or desert boots, completed the kit for the perfect explorer.
Click through the slideshow for show highlights Day 4 of Paris Fashion Week.