Today the fashionable crowd migrated north for the next Fall-Winter preview at Milan Fashion Week.
Signalling the halfway point for the unrelenting parade of menswear, the Milanese know how to do it in style, with other internationals latching on for the ride. This week, some of the key players – Gucci, Versace, Prada – will show their 2016/17 winter offerings, setting the tone for Paris and then New York.
No matter the locale, any fixture on the fashion circuit will know one trend is inescapable: the Seventies. Whether you’re remembering its coming for the first, second or third time (or not at all if you lived it properly), you’ll either welcome or recoil from it.
This nostalgic circle loop never gets old with its flattering shapes and diverse colour palette. This season’s strongest trend, androgyny follows a close second thanks to Gucci’s Alessandro Michele’s past two collections with others taking his lead for the coming season.
As such this was apparent at Roberto Cavalli with Peter Dundas’ first season at the helm.
Synonymous with excess, Cavalli reined in the bling this season with a trend-focused and restrained-by-precedent collection. Without question Dundas is a talent to reinvent the louche label favoured by the Riviera rat pack—without an unbuttoned flouncy shirt in sight.
Instead, he presented a romantic bobo (bourgeois-bohemian) range interspersed with women’s runway looks. A highlight was the multicoloured diagonal-striped eel skin leather jackets and the reworking of Cavalli’s signature leopard print through tastefully ostentatious outerwear.
Embroidery anchored several looks appearing on velvet blazers, a white shearling coat, a translucent sherbet shirt, and a double-denim extravaganza worthy of applause. Shawl-collared sleepwear-style coordinates picked up the trend set by Michele and Kim Jones for Louis Vuitton, but worn with Chuck Taylor-style kicks took on its own direction.
In direct contrast to the transience of Cavalli, Ports 1961 showed a sleek and chic collection of menswear to last into the next decade.
Milan Vukmirovic’s third collection for the brand was a monochrome explosion with flashes of jewel-toned colour. Satin bomber jackets embellished with oriental imagery such as fans, phoenixes and flora popped on the runway, but one of the show’s true stars was the version in snow-white astrakhan.
Another highlight was the two-toned black-and-white coat and counterparts in caramel and the season favourite, rust. Wearable, practical and suitable for all frames, how is it possible to want multiples of every piece?
Click through the slideshow for highlights of Day 1 of Milan Fashion Week AW16 Collection