Fashion is a creative playground and its designers are its imagination-charged children. The third day of the men’s Paris Fashion Week had a welcome sense of humour about it; a sentiment that Autumn-Winter needn’t be drab, but should be allowed the colour and vibrancy of the other half of the year.
Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus, Maison Margiela and in particular, Pigalle injected a childlike playfulness into their respective collections, while others such as Cerutti remained a little more taciturn.
The Belgians continue their reign over Paris Fashion Week—first Raf Simons and now Ann Demeulemeester, although Frenchman Sébastien Meunier heads her men’s division.
The Fall-Winter collection embodied everything for which the brand is known: simplicity, quality and superlative construction. A well-fitted black satin jacket with a caramel shawl lapel opened the show, joined by a coat-length version and a surprising teal-and-red-wine colour way.
Slender fits formed the basis of the collection, and superior wools were its cornerstone. Rust comprised suits and coats, while a bronze overcoat with Mongolian goat hair trim screamed “buy me.”
It was against a shocking pink backdrop that Ricardo Tisci showed his latest Givenchy menswear offering, and while previous seasons have stopped others dead in their tracks, this was more surprising than shocking.
Givenchy has experienced great success under Tisci with his high-end street-style menswear, but his Fall-Winter presentation saw a return to Hubert de Givenchy’s haute couture technicality and construction. Tailoring was key with sumptuous wool-silk flannel trimmed in contrast-coloured velvet and mink in hues of rust, port and aubergine.
Alligator patches and studding adorned zippered jackets, mackintoshes, and buttery leather jackets of varying lengths. But the real show-stealer were the cobra bomber jackets, which incorporated twin serpents into the construction—a real display of Tisci’s technical skill.
Since Jonathan Anderson took the Creative Direction of almost-forgotten LVMH-owned Spanish leathergoods brand, Loewe, all eyes have been on the British designer and his reinvention of the house.
After a reworking of the brand identity, Loewe has eschewed the dusty annals of history and is now a major fashion player with street cred. Forgoing a runway show, the showroom collection was accompanied by a Steven Miesel-shot look book photographed on location in the African plains.
Brixton-style leopard beanies and round-rimmed sunglasses accompanied every look, which was relaxed and earthy, and with a cross-cultural aesthetic.
Quilted cotton parkas and turned-up trousers in tan and khaki, double-denim dust jackets and jeans with contrast cuffs, kimono-style knitwear in black and white and rust—it was serene with a strong Japanese design influence.
Hand-painted leather jackets carried messages of adventure and peace decorated with a tomahawk and an airborne dove. Though, as Loewe is primarily an accessories brand their core business was the real star.
Oversized – and we mean oversized – backpacks and totes in olive green were a highlight, as were the reworked Amazona bags in suede, a Puzzle bag in shearling and embossed tan leather, and the multiple accessories pouches and mirror cases hanging from the waist.
Click through the slideshow for highlights of Day 3 of Paris Fashion Week AW16 Collection