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Pitti Uomo Day 1: Federico Curradi & The Alternative Set

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The best-dressed men of the world descended upon Florence for the Pitti Immagine Uomo menswear trade show today. It’s where the world’s menswear influencers come to talk tailoring, menswear trends and fabrics, and to see collections from all over the globe.

Whether the highlight of Pitti Uomo is the shows themselves or observing the peacocking between venues, it’s always a spectacle for any menswear aficionado. One can’t help but feel underdressed beside the men who define tailoring and inspire its coming trends, particularly when the temperatures have dropped and the layers of sharp clothing have increased.

But there’s something to be said for seeing them in the same location, as it means an insider’s view to tomorrow’s menswear looks.

Federico Curradi

The lead designer for Italian fashion house, Iceberg, showed his solo collection at Pitti Uomo for the first time. Ditching the runway for a showroom-style event, Federico Currradi placed models in a modern ghetto-meets-oasis atop concrete blocks and pallets amid oil-spilling barrels from which plant life appeared to bloom.

The tableau was a complementary backdrop to the garments presented, which had a contemporary Oliver Twist aesthetic, as if the Artful Dodger had been pickpocketing sheiks instead of bankers. Classic tailoring played its part through the outerwear, showing double-breasted coats with wide lapels in teal and camel, and a horizontal-striped variation that was the statement piece of the collection.

Plaid was again a strong theme, working its way into slouchy single-breasted wool dust jackets and long, draped scarves. Knitwear was key for Curradi, who worked with a mix of wool and mohair in plain and patterned V-necks and the one statement turtleneck. Overall the look was relaxed and coordinated, but very much Italian.

The Alternative Set

Pitti Uomo is known for its departure from the standard fashion-week format, and this makes for a break from the monotony of models marching up and down runways.

The Alternative Set is one such example with designers of all creeds given the opportunity to show their collections in the way they see fit. Grenson x Norwegian Rain showed off their waterproof shoe with two dapper models straight from the Jazz Age dancing upon a platform in shoes that magically repelled water.

The display was a crowdpleaser as was the mock bullfights by Spanish designers, Sastrería & Camisería 91 with their voluminous toreador capes. It was an attention-grabbing display for which the duo is known, and put a smile on the faces of the staid fashion crowd.

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