Set against the backdrop of a Florentine June, Pitti Uomo’s a testament to Italian summer style. It’s sprezzatura, seen in the way locals celebrate fine food and share a glass together each evening for apertivo. It lives in the way Italian men master both smart and casual dressing.
It’s true. Pitti’s more of a spectacle outside on the Fortezza da Basso than it is inside the exhibition walls. But looking past the peacocks, the summer event is designed to inspire. It’s about gleaning colour, pattern and accessory ideas from these bold Italians: gents who are breaking the sartorial rules for the most part, because they know them oh-so well.#1 It’s A White Wash
The men of Pitti know the value of a clean palette. And white is the purest of them all. With it, baroque floral ties took the floor and suspenders (never to be worn with a belt) didn’t look gaudy at all, thanks to the silent white wash shirt.
The other white winner was the chino, worn with a royal red or Med-blue blazer. The rule with white? Wear a block colour – in a saturated shade rather than fluro – topped off with an off-white fedora: the definition of summer.
#2 Louche Loafers
The loafer – louche in fabrication and silhouette – held its own among the formal monk and derby, but was a style-step up from the retro sneaker. Bi-coloured brogue-toe loafers – flashing from canvas beige to buttery caramel – were key this season.
As were burnished brogues, the leather both naturally dark and light for the gent who likes a rustic base note. Woven leather – intrecciato – added texture to the loafer and most gents went for the tassel model over penny – no socks, of course. It wouldn’t be Pitti without some this-just-happened mankle exposure. Effortless.
#3 Put A Ring On It
Men’s jewellery is one of the most refreshing style points of Pitti. From beaded bracelets to metallics cuffs, hands were adorned – but never effeminately – while clutching a smartphone or padding down a pocket.
This edition, more men were wearing rings – and for some, multiple rings on each hand. In silver – with encrusted stones and textural design – a thick-width band and oxidisation were key ring-elements in keeping masculine. As was the finger placement: pinky rings – riffing on the iconic signet ring and perfect for tailoring.
#4 Denim Dude
Denim stepped out from its casual confines and proved just as dapper as its cotton, wool and seersucker comrades. The indigo-stained cloth is a fashion favourite with suiting, thanks to its blue colour – pairing (just like navy) with everything. And, it can be customised: washed out, faded and slightly ripped for individuality.
Cut in a trouser silhouette, hemmed and worn on the hips – with the shirt tucked, denim jeans were the perfect alternative to suit pants. But the vero denim lovers embraced layers; adding in a denim DB blazer, or a chambray shirt paired with a garment-dyed waistcoat in faded indigo. Nothing Canadian tuxedo here.
#5 Earth To…
Earth tones ruled this Pitti edition. Replacing the sweet pastels of last year, jacket colours looked to the desert – Uluru-reds and rocky oranges – paired with beige trousers to lighten the terrain. Metallic silk browns added some sparkle to matte shirts, teamed with matching brown brogues tying in the ground shades.
Khaki was the other earthen hue, worn as a block colour over a navy polo for some analogous colour blocking. Or with a lolly-coloured butchers stripe, which popped on the neutral green. Horn buttoned blazers and metals – via a belt buckle, watch and wire-frame sunglasses – were points of contrast to personalise the look. Despite uniformity in colour, up close, no two Pitti’s are ever the same.