The TUDOR Black Bay Story
As with most timepieces from TUDOR’s illustrious portfolio, the Black Bay S&G draws direct inspiration from the brand’s rich diving heritage of the exploration golden era which commenced with the arrival of Reference 7922 in 1954. The goal: an ergonomic, legible, accurate and highly robust diver’s piece inspired by the words of architect Louis Sullivan who said that form must always follow its function.
It was this very element of design that would form the DNA of a TUDOR diver’s watch, an integral backbone faithfully reproduced in the Heritage Black Bay S&G sixty years on. Today the Heritage Black Bay S&G is a signature model which pays homage to this tradition whilst showcasing today’s most extraordinary craftsmanship in watchmaking.
A closer look at the new Heritage Black Bay S&G will reveal the general lines alongside a domed dial and crystal which graced one of TUDOR’s first diving watches. The gold winding crown, affably known as Big Crown, is taken directly from Reference 7924 of 1958 and features the same angular hands which was the preferred design of the French National Navy during the 1970s.
41 mm steel case with polished and satin finish
Manufacture Calibre MT5612 (COSC) self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
Approximately 70 hours
Waterproof to 200 m (660 ft)
Steel and yellow gold bracelet or aged leather strap with folding clasp and safety catch. Additional fabric strap with buckle included in the box
(OR KEEP READING BELOW)
Movement & Mechanics
Instead of reinventing the wheel TUDOR borrowed the proven calibre MT5612 which it debuted back in 2015 and added a date function to it for the first time in the Black Bay family. This self-winding mechanical movement resides perfectly in the Heritage Black Bay S&G to offer precision timing in a superbly robust unit.
Functionality isn’t just a passing statement at TUDOR. The watch offers a solid 70-hour power reserve which enables a wearer to take off the watch on a Friday evening and put it back on again on a Monday morning without needing to re-set or wind the watch.
The movement itself ticks at a frequency of 28,800 beats/hour or 4Hz and is regulated by a variable inertia oscillator with silicon balance spring. The robustness is guaranteed with a traversing bridge holding it all in place. For added peace of mind, the Heritage Black Bay S&G movement is certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).
The Heritage Black Bay S&G evokes a defined and masculine aesthetic thanks to a 41mm steel case with a polished and satin finish. The striking unidirectional rotating bezel is set in yellow gold with a 60-minute graduated matte black anodised aluminium disc and matching gold markings whilst the winding crown features a regal yellow gold screw down complete with the TUDOR rose engraved and lacquered in black.
The winding crown tube is also set in black anodised aluminium to polish off the fine attention to detail. On the front face curious eyes are greeted with a black domed dial sitting under a domed sapphire crystal.
Steel and yellow gold bracelet or aged leather strap with folding clasp and safety catch.
Every Heritage Black Bay S&G is accompanied with a choice of a riveted steel and yellow gold bracelet or an aged leather strap with a folding clasp and safety catch to suit any man’s taste. There’s also an additional fabric strap with a buckle included in the the package for more active duties.
Lastly satisfying the diving standard is a waterproof rating of 200 metres.
The TUDOR Black Bay Heritage S&G is for the man who aspires to bridge the gap between functionality and style.
Variations Of The Black Bay
The TUDOR Heritage Black Bay comes in a multitude of variations and colour combinations.
The latest is the 41mm steel versions which come in three distinct looks. The Black Bay 41 features the steel case without a bezel whilst the Black Bay Steel comes with a rotating bezel. The Black Bay Chrono comes with a 41mm steel case complete with a unidirectional rotating bezel and chronograph functions.
Those looking for something with a more distinct look can opt for the Black Bay Bronze in a 43mm bronze case, the Black Bay Dark in a 41mm PVD steel case, the Black Bay in matte burgundy disc and the Black Bay 36 which exudes pure minimalism in a 36mm steel case.
Who's Wearing It?
Sophistication, style and sportsmanship are the key elements that run deep in the TUDOR Heritage Black Bay S&G.
A watch of such calibre needs to manifest itself as an extension of its wearer’s own tenacity and there’s no better example of men to do that than global football star David Beckham and New Zealand’s national rugby team, the All Blacks.
Both Beckham and the All Blacks are leading men in their respective fields with the latter holding first place in the World Rugby ranking and the former having played for over five premiere teams in an illustrious career that excels beyond the football pitch.
The message is therefore pretty clear. TUDOR Heritage Black Bay S&G is made for those who thrive on competition and aspire to be the best at their game.
When you consider you’re getting a gold (and steel) watch that’s made by Rolex under the TUDOR banner, it’s hard to beat at the price (AU$5,645 RRP). In our opinion it’s one of the best value watches on the market in 2017.