With Watches & Wonders Geneva – the watch industry’s most important trade show – just under a month away, speculation about what many of the world’s biggest watch brands are going to reveal at the show is absolutely rife.
Naturally, the brand that’s the subject of much of the speculation, as it is every year, is Rolex. The titan of the watch industry is notoriously secretive and runs a pretty tight ship, so watch fans whip themselves up into a frenzy every year trying to anticipate what ‘The Crown’ is going to come up with next.
The horological experts over at Monochrome Watches has done a better job than most, sharing some rather compelling guesses and renders of possible new models. One of their mock-ups, however, really caught our attention: a two-tone version of the Rolex Submariner ‘Hulk’.
Hats off to Monochrome for their render, as well as the concept. A green and gold Rolex? What else could you call it but the ‘Aussie’? You beauty. We bloody hope Rolex actually make this…
The ref. 116610LV, better known by its heroic moniker, the ‘Hulk’, is one of the most vibrant and popular models Rolex has released in recent years. When it was first released in 2010, its green dial and bezel combination quickly became a fan favourite, driving up aftermarket prices… When it was discontinued in 2020, prices went ballistic, and now you can expect to pay around AU$50,000 for one – over three times the original retail price.
But we’re not hoping for a two-tone revival because we want to ditch the aftermarket’s price madness. We’d want one because it looks very cool. The bright green pairs beautifully with Rolex’s 18ct yellow gold, but the addition of the steel (Rolex calls this two-tone combination ‘Rolesor’) softens the watch’s aesthetic and makes it look less Austen Tayshus, if you catch our drift.
“We know that Rolex is, by and large, a rather conservative watchmaker. Yet, on some occasions, the brand can be bold. And Rolex does play a lot with materials and colour combinations… This combination of a Rolesor case/bracelet with a bright green dial and bezel is undoubtedly striking, but it is certainly in line with some of the brand’s more colourful and daring launches of late,” Monochrome Watches‘ Brice Goulard explains.
This delightfully Australian green and gold combination works so well, so we thought we’d highlight a few watches you can buy right now that feature a similar look.
First up, we have the Longines HydroConquest. This stylish dive watch can be had in a wide variety of dial colour combinations, case treatments, movements, bracelets and case sizes, but we reckon this two-tone steel and gold green model with an automatic mechanical movement (ref. L3.781.3.06.7) is the cream of the crop.
Fans of the Submariner will find a lot to like with this capable diver, with its 300m of water resistance, screw-down crown, ceramic bezel, super-bright lume and chunky hands… But it’s a lot thinner than the Submariner at 11.9mm whilst also having a slightly larger 41mm case size. Its Longines L888 movement also boasts a 72 hour power reserve compared to the Rolex’s 70 hours.
Unlike the Submariner, the HydroConquest’s rose gold finish is just that, a finish. It’s PVD instead of solid gold. But for AU$2,925, it’s a fifth of the retail price of a stainless steel Sub – and many, many times cheaper than a ‘Hulk.’
Tissot Chrono XL Classic
If you like green and gold but would prefer a chronograph over a dive watch, Tissot have got you covered. The Chrono XL Classic is one of the most underrated models in the brand’s collection, actually: it’s sporty and masculine but thing and dressy enough to suit formal occasions.
Like the Longines, the Tissot Chrono XL Classic in green and gold (ref. T116.617.22.091.00) is stainless steel with a PVD yellow gold coating, so it’s not quite the same as Rolex’s Rolesor… But value’s the name of the game here, and the Tissot presents a truly fabulous value proposition at only AU$700.
That’s a very reasonable figure for a proper Swiss Made chrono, especially one as good-looking as this one. We don’t know how Tissot do it for the money, frankly.
Rado Captain Cook Bi-Colour
Okay, this watch isn’t green and gold per se, but this is such an elegantly executed two-tone dive watch that we couldn’t help but throw it in. The Rado Captain Cook, like the Rolex Submariner, is one of the most iconic and enduring dive watch designs of the 20th century, and it looks killer in two-tone.
The Captain Cook Bi-Colour’s (ref. R32138153) sharp, retro design perfectly suits this metal combination, especially on that beautiful ‘rice grain’ bracelet. It’s like a cascade of little gold bars… Like the other two watches on this list, the gold is PVD and you can have this baby with either a yellow or rose gold finish.
Check out more about the Rado Captain Cook Bi-Colour here.