We landed back from Watches & Wonders 2024 at the Palexpo in Geneva — also the home of the Geneva Motorshow — where I got to touch and feel over 300 watches from 54 brands… and even met F1 legend Jacky Ickx.
Of all the timepieces on show, here are five timepieces that stood out, each drawing inspiration from the world of motor racing, speed and engineering.
This selection is about more than just telling the time; these are watches built for those who appreciate the delicate blend of precision engineering and the adrenaline of the track.
Here’s a peek at what’s setting the pace for 2024 in luxury Swiss watches.
TAG Heuer Split Second Chronograph
This isn’t just any Monaco; it’s TAG’s first mechanical split-seconds chronograph, powered by the spanking new TH81-00 caliber developed with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. Peek through the all-sapphire caseback and you’ll see an oscillating mass, shaped like the TAG Heuer shield, flaunting a hand-painted gradient in either fiery red or icy blue.
The watch itself comes in two colours. The red version mixes up a hot combo of red and black with a matching textile strap, sporting the word ‘Rattrapante’ (that’s ‘split-seconds’ for the uninitiated) on one of its sub-dials — a fresh move from TAG. Opt for the blue, and you get a nod to the Steve McQueen era with a modern twist reflected in gradient dial arches.
Cased in ultra-light grade-5 titanium and sporting a sapphire dial, each piece measures an easy-wearing 41mm and will be individually numbered on the oscillating weight. Set to launch this June, brace yourself for the price tag of $200,000 Aussie dollars, placing this Monaco in the same ballpark as a Richard Mille… it seems TAG Heuer isn’t content to play it safe.
Angelus La Fabrique Instrument de Vitesse Noir Ebene
Instrument de Vitesse, crafted by the somewhat under-the-radar brand Angelus, is a nostalgic nod to the golden age of timed races.
With its single timing hand — the central seconds hand — this timepiece brings a unique twist, capable of timing bursts of up to one minute long. Encased in a 39-mm steel case, it sports a sleek 4.20mm manually-wound Manufacture calibre, ensuring the whole setup stays under 10mm thick.
Available in either ivory-white or ebony-black, each colour is limited to just 25 pieces. While Angelus might not be a household name, this release may just be the thing to change that. If you’re eyeing one, move quick — these watches are as exclusive as they are exquisite.
Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph JX7
During our travels, we spent an unforgettable evening at the Chopard family estate, where they transformed a tractor barn into a chic event space for the launch of the JX7. With only 250 pieces up for grabs, this limited edition isn’t just a watch, it’s a slice of racing and watchmaking heritage.
Strapped with precision and dripping with the spirit of camaraderie, the Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph is a welcome tribute to the legendary partnership between Chopard and ace wheelman Jacky Ickx.
For over 35 years, Ickx has been the face of Chopard’s passion for the vintage motoring 1000 Miglia race. The case back of the JX7 is really cool, featuring Jacky’s signature helmet design.
Fun fact: Jacky told us he designed the two-eye hole helmet as a safety measure when the barriers in F1 were made of hay and wire. The two-hole design was intended to stop the wire from cutting your head in half. True story!
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde and Rattrapante Chronograph
Parmigiani Fleurier is back in the spotlight, dusting off its Toric collection after a bit of a sabbatical and throwing itself back into the ring with some fresh swagger.
Enter the Toric Chronographe Rattrapante, an 18ct rose gold marvel.
This bad boy is a true “racing machine.” Thumping away at a high-rev 5Hz, its integrated movement features a sleek double-column wheel.
To be clear, it’s not just about the mechanics; it’s about the show too. With skeletonised structural elements that weave into a veritable arabesque, this design gives you a front-row seat to the internal action, letting you soak up every intricate move it makes.
IWC Portugeiser Chronograph Black & Gold
A brand that needs no introduction thanks to its crazy-successful partnership with the Mercedes-Benz AMG F1 team is IWC. This year, IWC went all-in on their popular Portuguiser line of watches with some fresh new dial colours.
One in particular that stood out as a racing machine was the Obsidian Chronograph. The case is made from 18ct solid gold and features a very elegant obsidian dial and black alligator strap from the luxury shoemaker, Santoni.
If we were to give this one a nickname it would be the John Player Special, in memory of the iconic 1977 Lotus 77 F1 livery.
See all the coverage from Watches & Wonders 2024.