450 watches, 54 brands, 4 days and 2 men. Watches & Wonders has been a huge event for DMARGE this year so we thought to share our Founder Luc Wiesman’s top picks from the event. These watches are the ones that gave him the shpilkes.
IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar
IWC’s Portugieser Eternal Calendar just strutted into Watches and Wonders 2024, and it’s not just flaunting any old calendar — it’s the brand’s first secular perpetual calendar. What’s the big deal? This bad boy won’t need any manual updates until the year 3999 thanks to a 400-year gear that smartly sidesteps those pesky Gregorian leap year exceptions. Oh, and it’s packed in a snazzy platinum case.
And get this: its moon phase is so precise, that it’ll only be off by a day after 45 million years. Talk about overachieving! If you’re into tracking celestial movements with absurd accuracy, this masterpiece is your kind of extra. Imagine only changing your underwear once every 45 million years.
TAG Heuer Monaco Split Second
This isn’t just any Monaco; it’s TAG’s first mechanical split-seconds chronograph, powered by the spanking new TH81-00 caliber developed with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. Peek through the all-sapphire caseback and you’ll see the oscillating mass, shaped like the TAG Heuer shield, flaunting a hand-painted gradient in either fiery red or cool blue.
The watch itself is a choice between red or blue. The red version mixes up a hot combo of red and black with a matching textile strap, sporting the word ‘Rattrapante’ (that’s split-seconds for the uninitiated) on one of its sub-dials — a fresh style move from TAG. Opt for the blue, and you get a nod to the Steve McQueen era, but with a modern twist reflected in gradient blue dial arches.
Cased in ultra-light grade-5 titanium and sporting a sapphire dial, each piece measures an easy-wearing 41mm and will be individually numbered on the oscillating weight. Set to launch this June, brace yourself for the price tag of $200,000 Aussie dollars, placing this Monaco in the same ballpark as a Richard Mille — seems TAG Heuer is not playing it safe.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Aussie Aussie Aussie! Edition
Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas collection is diving into the green scene, pairing deep emerald dials with luscious 18K pink gold cases and bracelets.
This lineup includes four models: a dainty 35mm with a diamond-set bezel for the small wrist crowd, a 41mm time and date, a 42.5mm chronograph, and a 41mm dual time. Each is water-resistant up to 150 meters and features a no-tool-needed quick-release clasp for easy strap swapping between the included leather and rubber options, both in matching green.
The vibe? Rich green meets gold, exuding luxury in a subtle whisper, not a shout. The perfect watch to wear when cheering Australia on at the Olympics.
The Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25
Chopard’s spicing things up at Watches & Wonders 2024 with a slick new version of the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25. This time it’s all about understated luxury with a white gold case and a jet-black enamel dial. They’re keeping it exclusive with just 100 pieces up for grabs.
The watch packs a serious punch with a jumping hour display, minimalistic design, and a massive eight-day power reserve, thanks to Chopard’s beefy Quattro movement. Wrapped in a swanky black gator strap and tagged at $52,000, this isn’t just a watch; it’s a statement. For those in the know, Chopard’s pulling no punches with this limited gem.
Masterpiece Collection Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon ‘Dawn’
In 2022, Grand Seiko launched the Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon, smashing horology records by melding a tourbillon with a constant-force mechanism on the same axis — a first. This not only scooped up the Chronometry Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève but also marked a serious high point for Grand Seiko. Welcome to the party, Pal.
The original Kodo had a twilight theme, but the latest version is all about dawn. It features morning-light vibes with silver-tone movements and some cool blue sapphires instead of rubies, all encased in ultra-tough Brilliant Hard Titanium.
Plus, it comes with a snazzy white leather strap treated with urushi lacquer, making it not just a watch, but a total showstopper.
Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Edition Intense Black
We were invited to Chanel and whilst there the Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Edition Intense Black caught our eye. The Monsieur de Chanel first strutted onto the scene in 2016, turning heads with its slick, geometric dial layout — from the retrograde minutes at the top, ticking down to the seconds, and a suave jump hour window at the base.
Initially launched in those oh-so-lush precious metals, it later embraced high-tech vibes without losing an ounce of Chanel’s classic elegance. Fast forward to Watches and Wonders 2024, and we’ve got the “Superleggera” edition, which has the streamlined grace of a race car, decked out in a 42mm black ceramic and steel case.
This bad boy’s dial mimics a race car speedometer, slightly open-worked to sneak a peek at the movement, while textures like Clous de Paris add layers of depth. This year’s model trades up its red accents for a splash of yellow-gold, keeping things fresh.
Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810
Sometimes a watch doesn’t just keep time; it makes a statement loud enough to get its own collection. Enter Montblanc’s Iced Sea lineup, swaggering onto the scene with three fresh faces. Leading the pack is the Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810, a beast that dives as deep as Mont Blanc is high — 4,810 meters, for those counting. Fancy a change? There’s also a bronze-cased Automatic Date and a steel charmer with a burgundy dial.
The 0 Oxygen concept is where Montblanc flexes its tech muscles, crafting a case devoid of oxygen to withstand the underwater abyss without fogging up or fizzing out.
Hublot Big Bang Unico Pink Sapphire
One of Hublot’s standout pieces from Watches & wonders was the Big Bang Unico Pink Sapphire. This little rocket is created from a single piece of sapphire and requires a delicate touch when engineering the casing to avoid shattering.
It’s highly wearable with a 42mm size and should be popular with both men and women. It’s completely translucent which makes the timepiece all the more special. It’s limited to just 100 pieces and will retail in Australia for $180,000.
Bell & Ross BR05 Black Ceramic
The BR05 isn’t just a watch; it’s a cockpit-inspired instrument built for the high-flying demands of aviation, available in three 41mm versions: a classic black ceramic dial, a sleek open-worked skeleton, and a model with B&R’s iconic LUM treatment for a standout matte finish.
Under the hood, the BR05 features the BR-CAL.321-1 calibre with a 54-hour power reserve. Whether it’s the solid dial at $11,900 AUD, the skeleton at $15,400 AUD, or the LUM at $14,900 AUD, these pieces are ready to become staples in the Bell & Ross lineup, blending high-flying aesthetics with ground-breaking functionality.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon
At Watches & Wonders 2024, Jaeger-LeCoultre reintroduces the Duometre, a collection that sits at the pinnacle of its technical achievements. This year, they’re showcasing the Duometre Chronograph Moon, driven by the newly developed calibre 391, which smartly combines a high-precision chronograph with a celestial complication. The model, refreshed with new cases and dial tweaks, stands out as a key release for 2024.
The original Duometre mechanism, launched in 2007, tackled the challenge of complications draining the power reserve and affecting precision with its innovative Dual-Wing system. This design features two separate barrels and gear trains — one for timekeeping and one for complications — ensuring steady power despite demanding functions.
For its 2024 comeback, the Duometre sports new case options: platinum with a copper-coloured dial and pink gold with a silver dial, each reflecting a modern take on the brand’s classic 19th-century pocket watches. The new 42.5mm cases maintain a sleek 14.2mm profile, marrying traditional aesthetics with contemporary function.
Cartier Santos Dumont Rewind
Cartier takes the cake for 2024’s most inventive design with the Santos-Dumont Rewind. This isn’t just any limited edition — crafted in platinum, it features a striking Carnelian red stone dial. But here’s the twist: everything runs backwards.
Yes, the hands and numerals tick counterclockwise! It’s this kind of high-end whimsy that only Cartier could dream up, blending traditional luxury with a playful, head-turning feature. Sadly they are all sold out and at $38,000 a piece, they’re not for the faint of heart.
A Lange Sohne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”
This year, A. Lange & Söhne is pulling out all the stops for its 30th brand anniversary and the 25th birthday of its Datograph. It’s party time, and the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Lumen in Honeygold is crashing the scene — decked out in Lange’s signature style, it’s nothing short of spectacular.
Enter the Datograph Perpetual Lumen. This isn’t just any watch; it’s a walking history lesson wrapped in a luxe package. Celebrating 25 years of the Datograph, it’s the sixth of Lange’s “Lumen” releases and the 14th trot out in Honeygold.
What’s Honeygold, you ask? Only Lange’s exclusive, harder-than-your-average 18k gold with a glow that hits the sweet spot between yellow and rose gold. The case keeps its classic 41.5mm by 14.6mm size but tricks you into thinking it’s slimmer with a cleverly raised flange on the caseback.
Cool tech, but invisible to the eye, so you get a certificate to flaunt the invisible magic. Montblanc’s not just making watches; they’re making waves with a dive watch as robust as it is chic.
Ulysse Nardin Freak [S NOMAD]
Swiss luxury watchmakers Ulysse Nardin were certainly feeling freaky at this year’s Watches & Wonders, releasing a certified novelty, in every sense of the word, in Geneva.
We saw many intricate configurations on the shop floor last week, but the Freak S NOMAD was an indelible iteration due to its unique aesthetic features… or lack thereof. The watch brand releases the Freak S NOMAD with no dial, no hands, no crown and supposedly no boundaries. To be honest, I’m surprised there’s an actual watch behind this out-there concept.
Presented in a beastly 45mm diameter case, the Ulysse Nardin Freak S NOMAD is a real eye-catcher that shows the Swiss watchmakers fully flexing their horological muscles.