Underrated Watches You Should Consider Buying In 2024

When it comes to the world of luxury watches, there are a few timepieces that even people only passingly familiar with watches know: the Rolex GMT-Master (and its alternatives), the OMEGA Speedmaster or the Patek Philippe Nautilus, just to name a few.

Sometimes these watches are so popular that we forget that these watchmakers make other watches – Audemars Piguet makes more than just the Royal Oak, for example – or maybe these brands have so many different models in their range that we forget about some of the less well-known ones.

Well, we’d like to rectify that. We’ve assembled a shortlist of a few underrated, underappreciated watches from some of the world’s most popular and well-known luxury watch brands that you ought to consider for your next watch purchase.

IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser

The origins of the Portugieser date back to the 1930s, taking its inspiration from maritime instruments of precision and quality. The IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 42, with its distinctively larger 42.4mm stainless steel case, is the latest novelty from the Swiss manufacture, featuring a striking dune-coloured dial, gold-plated hands and gold appliques.

On the reverse this piece’s box-glass sapphire crystals reveals the 52011 Calibre, an IWC-manufactured automatic movement with a serious 168-hour power reserve.

Retail Price: $20,000 AUD

TUDOR Black Bay Ceramic VCARB Edition

Tudor Black Bay Ceramic (ref. M79210CNU-0007)

After Tudor was confirmed as the official partner to Daniel Ricciardo’s new Formula 1 team, Visa Cash App Red Bull, F1 fans and watch fans were sharing the excitement about a unique release from the Swiss watch brand inspired by the team’s 2024 livery.

Of course, it was first spotted on Ricciardo’s wrist during his official announcement, but Tudor has now released the Master Chronometer Black Bay Ceramic for purchase… and it’s earned a well-deserved buzz.

This 41mm matte black ceramic watch features an electric blue domed dial, “Snowflake” hands with Swiss Super-LumiNova®, and the COSC-certified automatic MT5602-1U movement. Available with either a hybrid leather rubber strap or a black fabric strap, it’s an expected sporty offering from Tudor designed for performance and style.

Retail Price: $7,600 AUD

Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad

From its revolutionary approach to award-winning marine chronographs through the early 20th century to the revered Freak novelties, Ulysse Nardin has always had a reputation for being a daring brand, unafraid to think outside of the box for unique (and at times, freaky) iterations.

Now in 2024, the Swiss Luxury watchmakers have added yet another spectacular release to the collection marking the most complicated, time-only watch to exist in the world of haute horlogerie.

I was fortunate enough to get hands-on with the Freak S Nomad, Ulysse Nardin’s new piece without a dial, hands or a crown. With a 45mm dial, this indelible feat of contemporary watchmaking is visually striking yet surprisingly wearable, featuring a painstakingly assembled, diamond guilloché pattern, that was handcrafted using an 18th-century rose engine over three hours.

Retail Price: $224,200 AUD

TAG Heuer Carrera Panda

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph “Panda” (ref. CBS2216.BA0041)

First launched in 1963, thanks to the brand’s revered custodian Jack Heuer, the TAG Heuer Carrera takes its inspiration from the legendary rally race, the Carrera Panamericana, that spanned Mexico throughout the 20th century.

Now in 2024, TAG Heuer has re-introduced an iconic feature from one of the very first iterations some 60 years ago, adding the silvered dial with black subdials that has now become affectionately known as the “Panda”. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph “Panda” is presented in an updated 39mm finely brushed stainless steel case and a bezel-free construction, with the brand’s ultra-modern in-house chronograph calibre TH20-00 boasting an impressive 80-hour power reserve.

Retail Price: $9,650 AUD

Bell & Ross BR05 Black Ceramic

Bell & Ross, the Swiss-Franco manufacture that was grabbing everyone’s attention at this year’s Watches & Wonders has been on our radar for quite some time.

Although B&R has garnered a reputation for producing rugged, robust-looking instruments with an elegant finish, the all-new Bell & Ross BR05 stood out from the pack, with a classic all-black ceramic finish and the brand’s signature square dial, reminiscent of cockpit instruments.

Bell & Ross released three 41mm configurations for the BR05: a solid black ceramic dial, an open-worked skeletonized version, and one with an eye-catching LUM treatment, priced at $14,900 AUD.

Retail Price: $11,900 AUD

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris

Jaeger-LeCoultre is perhaps best known for its stylish dress watches, such as the classic Reverso or the Master Control, but the storied Swiss manufacture also makes a cracking diver’s watch: the handsome Polaris, which is one of the most underrated diver’s watches on the market.

The Polaris is available in a wide range of case materials and complications, but for our money, the most unique is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox with its mechanical alarm: a complication steeped in history that was invaluable during the early era of deep-sea diving.

JLC also blessed the Polaris with a perpetual calendar variant at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2022, which helped spark interest in the model amongst the watch cognoscenti. Anyway, we still reckon it’s a very underrated dive watch and definitely one you should consider investing in.

Retail Price: $30,700 AUD

Cartier Tank Must

First introduced in 1917, Cartier’s iconic Tank collection has worn many faces throughout history but has always been one of the French Maison’s most sought-after pieces.

Today’s iteration of the Cartier Tank Must features a classic 33.7 mm rhodium-finished steel case with a deep black lacquered dial that blends Cartier’s rich heritage with modern aesthetics. This piece is powered by a quartz movement for increased accuracy and convenience.

Retail Price: $5,600 AUD

Grand Seiko SBGH255

Grand Seiko Sport Collection (ref. SBGH255)

Another underrated dive watch for you, this time from Japan’s masters of horology: Grand Seiko. Despite the fact that Seiko is pretty famous for its dive watches, dive watches from its luxury arm are largely overlooked. People recognise Grand Seiko more for its dress watches – which is a shame, as its dive watches are also pretty amazing.

The Grand Seiko SBGH255 is the most amazing of them all, however. As Grand Seiko’s most capable dive watch, it’s the perfect marriage of utility and refinement. Water-resistant to 600m, it features a bulky yet light zaratsu-polished titanium case and a unique pure-iron dial for extra magnetic resistance (which also features a cool Royal Oak-like hobnail pattern).

Think of the SBGH255 as Grand Seiko’s answer to the Rolex Sea-Dweller or OMEGA Ploprof… Except that it’s much more affordable and wearable than either of those ‘superdivers’. It’s one hell of a watch.

Retail Price: $14,950 AUD

Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet

First launched in 2019, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet has had a somewhat mixed reception among watch fans: while it’s good to see AP doing more than just Royal Oaks, the Code 11.59 has been criticised for being too simplistic in its design.

It’s an unfair criticism, as the Code 11.59 is actually deceptively complex. A clever ‘sandwiched’ case design with trick floating lugs; a subtly double-curved sapphire crystal; a design that mixes octagonal design codes from the Royal Oak with rounded elements… It’s a real watch fan’s watch.

The Code 11.59 received a big update from AP earlier this year, with new entry-level stainless steel models with cool stamped dials introduced (which are now the most affordable watches in AP’s lineup) as well as the insane Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4, which is not just the most complicated Code 11.59 ever released but the most complicated AP watch ever full-stop.

Now that the Code 11.59 is in the spotlight, maybe people will start taking it more seriously. In any case, it’s a really underrated watch that deserves to be considered as more than just a second banana to the RO.

Retail Price: $46,100 AUD

WATCH our guide to the most expensive watches of all time below.

Chopard Alpine Eagle

Integrated bracelet luxury sports watches have never been more popular, but in-demand models like the aforementioned Royal Oak and Nautilus seem to get all the love… And they’re almost impossible to get your hands on.

We don’t understand why more people, then, opt for a Chopard Alpine Eagle – an equally refined and prestigious integrated bracelet timepiece. In gold, it’s particularly tasty: its bracelet is like a swathe of gold bullion dripping down your wrist. The Chopard Alpine Eagle sets the standard for Swiss excellence and features a dial modelled after an eagle’s iris for a super unique and mesmerising look.

The best bit about an Alpine Eagle is that you stand half a chance of getting one before you die. Because they’re a little bit underrated, they also fly under the radar a little more (if you’ll pardon the pun): it’s more likely to attract the right kind of attention. A connoisseur’s choice.

Retail Price: $14,800 AUD

Hermès H08

Luxury Maison Hermès might not be the first brand you think of when it comes to watches, but they’re actually pretty competent in this department, and highly underrated.

A huge departure from the French brand’s typically restrained, artistic watch offerings and a real contender in the luxury sports watch space, the Hermès H08 features a 39mm cushion-shaped titanium case and the option of either a titanium bracelet or rubber strap, which looks particularly nice in signature Hermès orange.

Retail Price: $8,320 AUD

Rolex 1908

Named in honour of the year the brand was founded, the Rolex 1908 gives a rather classy nod to Rolex’s storied history while integrating contemporary design elements into a contemporary release. The watch’s striking blue dial contrasts elegantly with the polished silver-tone case for a clean, minimalist design that’s a departure from Rolex’s iconic releases, like the GMT-Master II, for which they are known.

On the reverse, Rolex’s state-of-the-art automatic movement Calibre 7140 is as good looking as the dial: an open-work oscillating weight in yellow gold and the exclusive Rolex Côtes de Genève decoration, delivering a formidable 66-hour power reserve.

Retail Price: $48,600 AUD

OMEGA Railmaster

OMEGA Seamaster Railmaster Co-Axial Master Chronometer (ref. 220.10.38.20.01.002)

Everyone knows the OMEGA Seamaster and Speedmaster. Even less know the Globemaster, and even less still know the Railmaster. But just because it’s obscure doesn’t make it a bad watch by any means. In fact, the OMEGA Railmaster is a bit of a hidden gem.

The original Railmaster introduced in 1957, was an anti-magnetic timepiece intended for railway workers, scientists, or anyone who worked near electrical fields, like the Milgauss and Ingenieur. Sensing a theme here? Confusingly, the Railmaster sits underneath the Seamaster range (not sure what the ocean and trains have in common).

More spartan in its design than many of OMEGA’s models, the Railmaster is still a tough and handsome tool watch that these days boasts a chronometer-certified movement and boatloads of retro charm.

Retail Price: $11,250 AUD

Van Cleef & Arpels Pierre Arpels

Finally, we have the Pierre Arpels from Van Cleef & Arpels. The 127-year-old brand is best known as a jeweller, and their women’s watches are far better known than their men’s models, but VC&A is no horological slouch.

Take the Pierre Arpels: an understated and underrated men’s watch. First introduced in its current guise in 2012, it was actually designed exclusively for VC&A scion Pierre Arpels himself back in the 40s. With its signature ‘floating’ lugs and minimalist design, it’s a masterclass in French classiness.

Most Pierre Arpels models are simple, time-only affairs, but occasionally it’s a canvas for some more creative affairs, like this Heure d’Ici & Heure d’Ailleurs (which charmingly translates to “Time Here & Time Elsewhere”): a dual time complication with a double jumping digital hour display and retrograde minutes.

Retail Price: $43,000 AUD