The opening day of Pitti Uomo 90 saw sartorialists flock once again to the Italian design capital, Florence. This edition – ‘Pitti Lucky Numbers’ – has Raf Simons and Russian designer-of-the-minute Gosha Rubchinskiy as official show invitees, making it a real mix of contemporary design and old world masculinity.
But to the boys; the dandy street style that is now the most talked about aspect of Pitti. What were the men of Pitti wearing?
While colour abounded, it wasn’t the sugar-hit pinks, greens and blues of last summer edition. Rather, rich jewel tones (jade, ruby and yellow diamond) glistened on the iconic fortezza da basso (where all the peacocks preen), the locals embedded on the grey cement wall like precious stones, clutching tightly their smartphones.
Neutral suits (browns, tans, greys and blues) – pinned by tassel loafers, were broken up by geometric print jackets and electric fern patterns, injecting a modern mix among the classic double breasted stripes and windowpane checks.
But the investment piece of the season has to be the hat. Not your average straw fedora or felt trilby, but the brimmed hat in wool with a tall crown, severely pinched at the front.
Headwear came in jaunty colours (emerald, plum) wrapped in tonal ribbons too. And there was an acceptance of imperfection detailed in the washed-wool varieties, a nice contrast to the impeccable tailoring and handcrafted shoes that is indeed, Pitti Uomo.
Click through the slideshow for the best Pitti Uomo looks for Day One.